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Hi, today we’re going to talk about how to grow zinnias from seeds. We have lots and lots of zinnia seeds, all extras that we want to give away. So today I’ll explain how you can grow them at home and have them ready to plant outside in your garden in June.

The two most important things for seeds to germinate are temperature and moisture. One thing that really helps with moisture is using a seed starting soil mix. This type of mix is very fine compared to regular potting soil, which is clumpier and has larger chunks. The seed starting mix is designed to hold moisture so the seeds can absorb what they need to germinate.

You can buy seed starting mix from a nursery, or use alternatives like coconut coir. If you want to save money, you can look up ideas for inexpensive seed starting mixes.

For temperature, seeds should be kept around 70 degrees. If your house is cool, try placing them in a warm spot, such as on top of a refrigerator or near a heater. Before seeds sprout, sunlight is not important—only warmth and moisture matter.

If you don’t have a warm spot, you can use heating pads, heat lamps, or even warm water when watering to help maintain soil temperature.

When watering seeds, be careful not to disturb them. Avoid pouring water directly if it’s too strong. Instead, use a spray bottle to mist them, or bottom-water by placing containers in a tray so water is absorbed from below.

You can tell when soil needs water by its color. Moist soil appears dark, while dry soil turns lighter. When you see lighter areas, it’s time to water. Another gentle watering method is to use a spoon to add water to each cell.

When planting seeds, follow the instructions on the seed packet. For zinnias, plant them about one-quarter inch deep. You can plant directly into cells or start in a separate container and transplant later.

To plant, fill your container with soil, use a pencil to create a shallow row, drop the seeds in, and then gently cover them. The key is maintaining the correct planting depth.

After planting, water from the bottom if possible to evenly moisten the soil. Then keep them in a warm location. Zinnia seeds typically germinate within 5 to 10 days.

Once seedlings emerge, they first produce two small seed leaves (cotyledons). Wait until they develop true leaves before transplanting. True leaves appear after the initial seed leaves.

When transplanting, gently loosen the roots using a pencil and handle the plant by its leaves, not the stem. Damaging the stem can kill the plant, while leaves can regrow if broken.

Place the seedling into a new hole, tuck the roots in carefully, and gently press the soil around it. After transplanting, bottom watering is recommended to ensure the soil is fully moist.

Once seedlings are established, they need sunlight. Keep them in a sunny location and continue providing warmth to encourage growth.

Keep plants indoors until June 1. After that, they can be planted outside in your garden, containers, or other planting areas.

There are many varieties available, so feel free to experiment. Come pick up some seeds and enjoy growing beautiful, colorful flowers this summer.

Hi, my name is Isaiah Smith and nature horticulturist here at the gardens. Today I want to talk to you about starting some vegetables at home. For the purposes of this video, we’re mainly going to be talking about hot weather vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and herbs. You can also do this with squash, cucumbers, melons, and other warm-weather crops.

You can also start cold weather crops early, such as cabbage, broccoli, bok choy, and other brassicas. But for today, we’re just going to focus on tomatoes and peppers. We have a wide range of different products and materials you can use for seed starting, from high-end professional products all the way to recycled goods.

We’re going to focus on the recycled goods. We have yogurt cups, sour cream containers, and egg cartons — all things that can be reused in more than one way. I’ve already poked holes in the bottom of these containers for drainage. For cardboard containers like egg cartons, you really don’t need to do that because they naturally wick moisture.

I’ve also labeled the containers with the vegetable type and the date. For the egg cartons, I labeled the lid instead, which makes it easier to remember what’s planted where. I like to include the full name of the plant on the label. For example, instead of just writing “tomato,” I’d write “Tomato Big Mama Hybrid.” That way, when I check on the seeds later, I can easily look up the variety on my phone without needing to find the original packet.

To get started, take your containers with drainage holes and fill them with seed-starting soil. You can buy seed-starting soil in bags or compressed pellets at most stores. I recommend using a very fine soil mix because small seeds can get lost or overwhelmed in larger particles.

If you buy a ready-made product like a mini greenhouse kit, it will usually come with compressed pellets. The instructions will tell you how much water to add, and the pellets will expand. Then you can plant directly into them.

If you have older seeds and you’re unsure how viable they are, plant multiple seeds instead of just one. Once they sprout, you can thin them out and keep the strongest seedlings. Here I have four tomato seeds, and I’m planting them spaced apart so they won’t crowd each other as they grow.

Press the seeds lightly into the soil. Since these seeds are fairly small, they don’t need much soil covering them. Just add a light layer on top and gently firm the soil down so it stays in place when watered. You don’t want to compact the soil too much.

Once planted, place the containers in a south-facing or east-facing window with good light. Rotate them once a day after they sprout so the plants grow straight instead of leaning toward one direction.

If you’re using one of the ready-made seed-starting kits, they usually come with a plastic lid that acts as a mini greenhouse. These are nice because they help regulate humidity and reduce watering needs. If you’re concerned about humidity with your homemade containers, you can place them inside a gallon-size resealable plastic bag to create a similar greenhouse effect.

Most seedlings will only stay indoors for a few weeks before transplanting outside. Today is the first week of April, and I recommend planting outdoors after the first week of June. That gives about eight weeks of indoor growth. Personally, I like planting larger seedlings because they establish more easily during the summer.

If you want smaller plants, you can wait until mid-April or even early May to start seeds, depending on the variety, and they’ll still do very well.

The egg cartons work the same way. Fill them most of the way with soil and gently tamp the soil down into each cell so it stays in place better during watering. Then create a small indentation for the seeds.

Our first herb here is lavender. Herbs are great because you usually don’t grow just one plant at a time. I recommend planting several seeds in each cell — three, four, five, or even six seeds. Store-bought herb starts are usually multiple plants growing together, which helps keep the plant healthy as you harvest from it throughout the summer.

Sprinkle the seeds evenly into the cells. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Cover them lightly with soil since herb seeds are very small and don’t need much covering. Then repeat the same process for basil, cilantro, chives, and the rest of your herbs.

If you’re using compressed pellets, soak them in water first so they expand. Most pellets have a small divot in the top where you place the seed. Use one or two seeds for newer seed and a few extra if the seed is older.

Once everything is planted, cover the tray with the plastic lid and place it in a sunny window. Water whenever the top of the soil begins to dry out. Seedlings need consistent moisture — not too wet and not too dry. Check them at least once a day, although you won’t necessarily need to water daily. After a few rounds of growing seedlings, you’ll get a feel for the right balance.

That’s pretty much it. Seed starting is very easy to do and can be very inexpensive or as professional as you want it to be. If you have any questions, please give us a call at 637-6458. Ask for Isaiah, Nettie, or Jake, and we’ll be happy to help with any vegetable gardening or horticulture questions.

Thank you.

Hi everyone. This is Jessica. Today we’re going to talk about starting morning glory seeds. Here at the Botanic Gardens, we have a large number of extra morning glory seeds to give away, so feel free to pick up a packet or two at the Conservatory or the Children’s Village.

Morning glories bloom later in the summer, so it’s helpful to give them a head start by starting them indoors. You can begin as early as mid-April, and even older seeds can still germinate successfully.

One helpful trick is to soak the seeds overnight before planting. Dry seeds are small and dark, but after soaking, they swell and may even begin to sprout. Even seeds that are several years old can still be viable.

Once sprouted, plant the seeds in individual pots to prevent tangling as they grow. You can use standard pots or peat pots. If using peat pots, make sure to fully bury them or remove the top portion when planting outdoors to prevent drying.

Plant seeds about half an inch deep. Make a small indentation, place the seed, cover it, and gently firm the soil.

After planting, it’s best to bottom water by placing pots in a tray of water until the soil becomes evenly moist. After that, you can water normally from the top as needed.

Keep the plants indoors until the end of May. Since morning glories are vines, provide something for them to climb, such as pencils or small sticks, to prevent tangling.

If plants become tangled, they can be trimmed back. After Memorial Day, move them outdoors and provide a trellis or mesh for climbing.

By late summer, you should have beautiful morning glory blooms to enjoy each morning.

Hi everybody, I’m Nettie. I’m here at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens, and I’m the horticulture supervisor. Today I’m standing in a perennial bed that needs some cleanup, and I want to talk about spring cleaning in your garden.

With warmer days arriving, many people are ready to tidy up their yards. One of the first things to do is remove any annual plants left from last season. These will not come back, and if they reseeded, they’ve already done so and can now be cleared out.

Next, we want to cut back herbaceous perennials. These are plants that die all the way back to the ground each year, such as hostas and Shasta daisies. They will regrow in the coming season, but need to be pruned back first.

We also need to prune woody perennials, like Russian sage. These plants grow new stems each year, so the old growth should be cut back—usually to about six inches—to encourage healthy new growth.

Another important spring task is dividing and transplanting perennials. This should be done early, before plants enter vigorous growth. Grasses and some perennials can be split into multiple plants at this stage.

Some plants are intentionally left uncut during fall because they provide habitat and food for pollinators and wildlife. Seed heads and ornamental grasses also add visual interest during winter.

As you clean up, you can add plant material to a compost pile. You may also want to test your soil. Colorado State University offers soil testing services and can provide guidance on improving soil conditions.

Be sure to rake up leaves and debris, and consider applying mulch. Mulch helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Early weeds like thistle and dandelions should be removed as soon as they appear.

For ornamental grasses, cut them down evenly to about one to three inches. It’s easiest to do this before new green growth becomes tangled with old material.

For herbaceous perennials, cut all stems down to the ground. These plants regrow from the root system, which remains alive beneath the soil.

When pruning woody perennials like Russian sage, cut just above visible buds. These buds will produce new growth and flowers during the growing season.

With proper spring maintenance, your garden beds will be clean, healthy, and ready for strong growth throughout the season.